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The slots for the prop shafts were
deliberately cut oversize. I only had use of the dremel for 5 minutes and
I didn't want to have to file fibreglass out by hand later. The rudder
components can be seen here. The rudder post at the bottom has been cut to
length. The rudders are different sizes but they need to be cut to the
correct size anyway. |
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The rudders were installed first. They were
lined up by eye from the stern . Don't forget to check the angle from the
side. It may be easier to drill the hole in the hull about 1mm oversize so
the posts can be easily moved and positioned. Another tip is to let the
resin go off for a few hours (depending on what you use and the
heat/humidity) then do the final positioning when the resin is harder.
This will help the posts to stay in the desired place. |
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The posts from the inside. Once the resin has
almost gone off (cured) completely spit on you fingers (or lick them the
first time only if your hands are clean!!!) and you can shape the
resin to a smooth finish. This hasn't been done here yet. |
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Working from the plans, find where the end of
the prop shafts are and also the hieght above the keel. Unless you have a
flat table, a very accurate hull, and a great measuring technique (with a
couple of set squares etc...) the best way to do this is by eye. Make sure
you have a goodlook from many angles. |
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Line up the prop shafts with the rudders. If
the rudders are in the correct place, then the prop shafts have to be too. |
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Make up a similar sort of brace for the
inside. Spot then in place with CA glue. DOn't use too much as you'll want
to remove them later. Some of this can be done be measuring. Use your best
guess and hope it comes out right. |
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Then mask the holes where the shafts exit the
hull. Here the hole has been masked until the tape touched the shafts. |
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Here tape has been shaped over the rest of
the shaft. This gives a good place to start the faring into the hull. |
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The inside of the hull. The work has been
wetted out with West System epoxy resin. This was to make sure that the
thinner resin would get inmto every corner using a small 1" brush.
Don't press too hard or you'll push the masking tape off. |
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Add some balloons to the rest of the resin to
make a think glue. Again, once this is applied and it has cured a bit it
can be smoothed down with "some liquid". |
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The next day when the resin had fully cured,
the bracing was removed. Motor mounts were made from PVC that was aboout
2mm smaller in diameter than the motors. About 1/3 was cut off the side.
This kind of mount has worked extemely well. |
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A small blasa block was glued to the
underside of each mount in about the middle. You can see here thata gap
has been left in between the mounts. This is allow for a little distortion
of the pipe when the motors are removed. Another thing to note is that the
mounts are only glued in the middle at the bottom. Don't make a bracket or
put glue all up the outside of the mount as this may result in broken
mounts or glue when the pipe is flexed getting the motors in and out. |
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Gluing the deck. Pretty self explanitory.
Don't use too much glue. The edge will be cut around about 15mm in from
the side. if there is too much glue ozing out along the cap rail it may
overlap the cuittng line and make it very hard to remove the inner deck. |
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We love clothes pegs! |
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Ditto (not a quote from Ghost) ;-) |
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